|
Quilting tips are updated
regularly - check back for updates! Scroll down for earlier tips.
Quilting Tip #26:
Choosing Thread colours
When you are doing your patchwork and not
sure what thread to use. It is advisable to go with a grey or beige
thread. The lighter shades for light fabrics and the darker shades for
darker fabrics.
Quilting Tip #25: Ironing
seams
It is always advisable, whenever possible, to iron seams
away from the light fabrics towards the darker fabrics.
Quilting Tip #24: Foundation
Paper piecing
a. If you get ink from the photostat design, use a baby wipe to remove the
ink.
b. Be careful when photocopying many prints, as the photocopy machine
heats up there is a good chance that your copies will distort. This will
mean your blocks will be different sizes and you will not get the accuracy
wanted from using this method.
c. It is advisable to sign your original pattern that you are coping from.
You can use the master to check that your copies have not distorted.
d. Use a slightly smaller stitch than you would for regular stitching.
This aids in perforating the paper thus making the removal of the
foundation paper easier to remove from the fabric without too much
disturbance to your stitching.
i. When sewing on foundation
paper it is always advisable to have generous seam allowances and trim
them if necessary as they are your sewing guide for the next fabric seam
to be sewn.
ii. Tack a larger tacking
stitch around the edge of the finished block. This will keep the fabric
firmly in place when you join the blocks.
Quilting Tip #23: Choosing
Quality Fabrics
When making a quilt and choosing fabrics – choose the
best fabric you can afford. It is always advisable to like the fabrics you
are going to be working with, both the feel of the fabric and prints. The
enjoyment of the patchwork and quilting for me is often the fabric choice
made.
Quilting Tip #22: Sewing
assitance
When sewing projects, like the double wedding ring, you
are required to hold seams away from the presser foot while stitching.
These awkward seams are often difficult to get to with your fingers. A
Bamboo skewer is a nice and cheap alternative to a stiletto or an unpicker.
For smaller projects a toothpick is ideal.
Quilting Tip #21:
Transferring designs
When transferring quilting designs, trace the design
onto tissue paper or tracing paper and stick or pin onto the fabric. Tear
off after quilting through the paper.
Quilting Tip #20: Cheaper Appliqué
!
In place of an Appliqué Pressing sheet, use the
inexpensive Glad Bake
Quilting Tip #19: Makeshift Light Box for tracing
For an inexpensive makeshift light box, place a
florescent light under a large plastic box.
Quilting Tip #18: Removing
Pellon /magic appliqué
Once you have ironed the Pellon or magic appliqué to
your fabric and want to fuse the design to your
fabric, use tweezers or a pin to score the magic appliqué backing paper
and remove.
Quilting Tip #17: Appliqué
Press bars are useful for appliqué stems.
Quilting Tip #16: Benefits
of 100% cotton thread
When sewing a quilt using a 100% cotton fabric, use
cotton thread to avoid disappointment. The fabric is ironed on a hot
cotton setting and the cotton thread is also more suited to this ironing
temperature, thus eliminating the thread from perishing.
Quilting Tip #15: Catch
those threads!
Try placing a piece of batting next to your sewing
machine while stitching to catch all threads that you snip. This saves
time from having to pick stray threads from your clothing or the floor.
Quilting Tip #14: How much Fabric to buy?
“How much fabric do I buy” is the big question we
ask ourselves. It is always difficult if you do not have a specific
project in mind, but really like a piece or two of fabric. So anything
from a meter and up would be a safe figure. Often the cost of the fabric
and your budget play an important role in this decision.
Quilting Tip #13: Thin &
Fat Quarters
“Do I buy a fat quarter or a thin quarter?” I would
advise if you are buying a large print fabric then a fat quarter is
better. If you are planning to use it for strips
or borders on a small project then thin quarters are advisable.
Quilting Tip #12: Threading
Needles
If battling to thread a needle try these few simple
techniques before calling for help:
a. Use a needle threader. These are
useful and inexpensive. A must for a sewing box.
b. Try and lick
the eye of the needle, not the thread.
c. Hold up a white sheet of paper behind
the eye of the needle when threading it.
d. There is a flat side to the eye of a
needle and the side that “grooves” in. Make sure that the
concave side of the needle eye is facing
you when threading it.
Quilting Tip #11: Needles &
numbers
When buying hand sewing needles it is advisable to
remember that the smaller (shorter the needle, smaller the eye) the
needle, the higher the number of the needle size.
Quilting Tip #10: Ironing
When ironing your patchwork top it is advisable to iron
from the lighter fabrics towards the dark, when ever possible.
Quilting Tip #9:
Bias
Binding
To
make Bias Binding, cut the material into diagonal strips – 45 degree
angle.
These
strips can be joined, depending on the amount of bias binding you require.
For a
12mm wide bias tape, cut the fabric 23mm wide.
For a
18mm wide bias tape, cut the fabric 35mm wide.
For a
25mm wide bias tape, cut the fabric 48mm wide.
For a
50mm wide bias tape, cut the fabric 80mm wide.
Bias press bars are the perfect tool to
use to make small bias tubes.
Making Bias Binding Tubes using Bias Press Bars
Cut
the end of the fabric straight.
Fold
over the corner down creating a 45degree angle - the crosswise grain meets
the lengthwise grain of the fabric.
Mark
the fold and cut, forming a bias edge.
Using
a ruler, measure from the bias edge and cut the bias strips the width that
is needed for the bias tube.
Making the Bias Tube
Fold
the bias strips in half wrong sides together.
Measure from the folded edge and draw a line slightly wider than the press
bar.
Stitch
along the seam line and trim the excess seam allowance.
Insert
the rounded edge of the Bias Press Bar into the tube. Roll the seam
allowance to the centre of the flat side of the Bias Press Bar.
Press
the seam in one direction slipping the bar through the tube as you press.
Quilting Tip #8:
Basting
There
are various methods of basting a quilt. The method by which one is going
to quilt will depend on which basting method is to be used.
Machine Quilting
If you are planning on using a sewing machine to quilt it is recommended
that you use safety pins to baste the quilt layers and not basting
thread. The thread is inclined to get tangled in the presser foot making
things unnecessarily complicated.
It takes a lot of safety pins to layer a quilt for stitching by machine:
Approx. 75 pins for a crib and a minimum of 350 pins for a queen size
quilt.
Start
pinning from the middle of the quilt and pin every 4 inches or palm width
apart.
Do not
place your hand under the quilt whilst basting, as this will move the
quilt out of position and cause puckering.
There
are various sized safety Pins that can be used, the preferable size is
number 1 or 2.
When
you insert the pin you will feel the tip of the pin on your work surface,
pull the safety pin back through the quilt layers and use a Quilt spoon or
Quick Klip to close the pin.
Note: Only close your safety pins once you have inserted all the pins and
are happy with their positions.
Hand Quilting
Any
strong thread will be suitable to use when basting a quilt for hand
quilting. It is preferable to use a light - coloured thread that will
contrast with the fabric and quilting thread. It is also easier to
identify and remove the basting thread on completion of the quilting. It
is not recommended that dark thread is used as it leaves a shadow once the
basting is removed.
To
baste your quilt top first place safety pins through the layers to stop
them moving. Use a long strand of basting thread, knotted at the end.
Start in the centre and work outwards towards the edges of the quilt
diagonally, horizontally and vertically. Long stitches are used.
It is
important to remember the following:
-
Whilst basting you need to go through all three layers to secure them.
- The
backing must be kept smooth at all times.
- If
you are basting through a Quilting hoop it is recommended that you
add additional basting lines.
Quilting Tip #7:
Machine Needles
The Quilting Bug stocks a wide selection of machine needles and the two
preferable makes are Schmetz and Klassé, both needles are highly
recommended and of German origin.
Ball Point
Used
to when sewing cotton knits, interlock, rib knits, fleece, double knits
and most other knit fabrics. The ball point tip prevents the needle from
piercing and breaking the fibers. Available in assorted sizes.
Microtex / Metafil / Embroidery
These are ideal for sewing with Rayon and Metallic threads on woven or
knit fabrics. The larger eye accommodates these specialty threads as
well restricted eyesight, as it is easier to thread.
Various sizes available from 60/9, 70/10, 80/12 and mixed.
Universal
This
needle has a slight ball point tip making it an ideal needle to use for
most woven fabrics, knits and synthetics.
Available in various sizes. Size 80/12 is the most widely used.
Quilting
Ideal for piercing and quilting layers of cotton fabric with batting.
Available in size 80/12.
Twin
Ideal
for heirloom sewing and decorative top stitching. The distance between
the twin needles is available in the following sizes: 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm and
4mm.
They
are also available in Universal, Ballpoint, Stretch and Metafil.
Note: Twin needles are fixed in a nylon block and should be used at
slower speeds and not for prolonged periods.
Quilting Tip #6:
Pins
Craft Pins
These
are 14mm in length and often known as sequence pins.
Dressmakers Steel Pins
These
are steel pins, 34mm in length and used for general pinning of fabric.
Silk Pins
These
are fine 0.5mm steel shafted pins and used to pin delicate fabrics.
45mm Quilting Pins
These
are long pins and used to pin through layers of a quilt sandwich.
Quilter’s Flat Flower Pins
Similarly to the 45mm Quilting Pins these are slender in their shafts and
have a flat head making it easier to pass through the sewing machine.
Safety Pins
These
come in various sizes and are used when basting a quilt. They can be
straight or slightly curved. The Quilting Bug also stocks brass and
nickel in sizes from 0 to 2.
Quilting Tip #5:
Quilting Needles
There
are so many needles to choose from and so many sizes. Remember that the
higher the number of ANY needle, the smaller the needle.
Quilting needles are also called “betweens.” They can be purchased in a
number of sizes ranging from 7 – 12. Remembering that the higher the
number of the needle, the smaller the eye of the needle, the thinner and
shorter the shaft of the needle. The average needle size is a number 8.
The
tightness of the weave, the size of your hand and the thickness of the
batting will dictate the best needle size.
Needles with large eyes can also cause “drag” through the fabric layers,
making it difficult to glide the needle through the fabric. Quilters with
deteriorating eyesight often choose these needles, but unfortunately the
larger the eye the thicker the needle. A solution here would be to get a
needle threader to assist with threading through the smaller eye.
Replacing a Needle
It is
advisable to replace a machine needle after 8 hours of sewing. The
following advice is given by Klassé.:
Needles should be replaced more frequently when sewing synthetic
fabrics, appliqués or machine embroidery. This will avoid skipped
stitches and frayed threads.
Breaking Needles
Machine needles are designed to break for the protection of the sewing
machine hook mechanism.
If
your needle is bent throw it away immediately.
When a
sewing machine needle breaks, it is a warning to check the following:
1.
Is the needle type and size
correct?
2.
Is the thread unsuitable or too
thick for the needle size and application?
3.
Is the upper thread feeding
freely?
4.
Are the thread tensions perhaps
too tight?
5.
Does the machine need cleaning?
6.
Is the correct presser foot
fitted?
7.
Is the fabric being pushed,
pulled or dragged during sewing?
8.
Twin needles usually break due
to excessive heat build up whilst sewing.
9.
Avoid prolonged usages and
reduced speed is advisable when using a twins
Quilting Tip #4:
Removing blood stains from your quilt.
Yes, this will happen
to you: often, while quilting you will prick yourself and bleed on your
quilt. How do you get it out? Your own saliva! Just dab it off with
some white cotton fabric. Don't scoff - it works!
Quilting Tip #3:
Caring for your Cutting Board/Mat.
This is a really basic
tip: Never expose your cutting board to extreme temperature conditions,
especially direct sunlight - your board will warp and make cutting on it,
extremely difficult. I have not come across any tips/tricks for
flattening a board completely - if anybody has managed this, please e-mail
me and I will share with the rest of our readers.
Quilting Tip #2:
Washing Fabrics.
First a few basics:
Always use a reputable washing powder when washing your fabric, and always
ensure that you rinse all soap powder out of the fabric afterwards - soap
powder and sun may lead to bleaching of your fabric.. Remember that 100%
cotton fabric should only be washed in cold water - hot water may lead to
shrinkage and even colours running in certain instances.
When it comes to
(hand) dyed fabrics, soak the fabric in a mixture of cold water, salt and
vinegar - approximately 1 tablespoon of salt, 1 tablespoon of vinegar in 5
lt of water. This should "set" your colour and prevent any running.
Theoretically, your colours should not run if the dyer has set it
properly, but a slight water discoloration is not abnormal.
Updated comment: I have been informed by experts in the field that this
does not work with reactive dyes, and that any properly trained hand dyer
will have done the job right in the first place!
Quilting Tip #1: Easy Measuring.
Have you ever had a square piece of
fabric and wanted to subdivide it into equal-sized, smaller squares and
had difficulty in doing so? Often the problem is that the number of
squares that you want to create does not lead to an easy division for the
size of fabric and you are forced to search for a calculator. Try this
method instead:
Example: Consider the case where you'd
like to divide a square piece of fabric - 50 cm x 50 cm - into 9 equally
sized squares: Normally you'd cut the fabric into 3 strips and then cut
each strip into 3 again, giving you your total 9 squares. The problem is
that dividing 50 cm by 3 is a bit problematic - you would have to grab
your calculator and divide 3 into 50 cm, giving you 16.666666...cm and
then go and measure as closely as possible.
Instead:
Step 1: Think of a figure closest to 50
cm (larger than 50 cm, though) that would have made it so much easier - in
this case 60 cm would have worked perfectly...60 cm divided by 3 is 20
cm...an easy calculation!
Step 2: Take your quilter's ruler and
lay it over the fabric, with the 0 cm mark on the bottom, left edge of the
fabric and rotate it until the 60 cm mark is at the top, right hand edge.
See Figure 2 below.
Step 3: With you quilter's or other
fabric pencil, make a mark at 20 cm intervals along the ruler. See Figure
3 below.
Step 4: Draw vertical lines through your
marks. See Figure 4 above..
Step 5: Rotate your fabric through 90°
and do the same as above (Step 2). See Figure 5 above.
Step 6: Once again, draw vertical lines
through your marks. See Figure 6 above.
.................and Voila! You have
finished!
PS: Once you have grasped the concept,
you can apply it to any size fabric and any number of divisions. Have
Fun! |
